In the heart of Ukraine's wine country, where the lush grasslands meet the banks of the Southern Buh river, a story of resilience and hope unfolds. Amid the serene beauty of the Molchanov family's vineyard, a terrifying reminder of the war's relentless presence looms: an unexploded Russian rocket, half-buried in the soil between rows of Chardonnay grapes. This is a place where the very act of making wine becomes an act of defiance, a symbol of belief in the future, even in the face of uncertainty and danger.
The Molchanovs' story is a testament to the indomitable human spirit. As the full-scale invasion began in February 2022, they chose to stay and tend to their vines, even as the fighting intensified and they found themselves between the lines of two warring armies. The good news was that their wine cellar served as a bomb shelter, and the defense of Mykolaiv was successful. But the bad news was that their precious 2017 Cabernet was no more.
Wine growing is an uncertain business, even without a war raging. Grapes face threats from bad weather, rot, disease, and fungus, and the Molchanovs, who use only copper and sulfur as pesticides, have had to contend with wild goats and pigs nibbling on their grapes. Yet, despite these challenges, the Molchanov family has expanded their acreage since the full-scale invasion and plans to increase production from 10,000 bottles a year to 30,000-50,000 over the next decade. This optimism is shared by many Ukrainian winemakers, who see potential in their country's little-known wine industry.
However, the broader picture is one of shrinking acreage and devastating loss. The historical Prince Trubetskoy winery in the Kherson region, dating from the early 20th century, was occupied and looted at the start of the invasion, and then obliterated by bombing in February this year. The country's 68,000 hectares of land planted with vines in 2014 dropped to 47,000 after the Crimean peninsula was illegally annexed by Russia, and now it's down to 15,000. Many vineyards have been lost to occupation, the blowing up of the Kakhovka dam, and changing farming practices, as large growers opt for more reliable, faster rewards in sunflowers or wheat.
Despite this, a remarkable 82 craft wineries have been established since 2022 in Ukraine, mostly in the safer central and western parts of the country. Newer vineyards, like Gigi in the Vinnytsia region, are growing Georgian and Ukrainian grapes, while established wineries like Beykush, on a narrow cape southwest of Mykolaiv, are focusing on quality, small-scale production. Beykush, established in 2010, is a tribute to the area's rich history of viticulture, from the ancient Greeks to the Ottomans and Jewish growers of the early 20th century.
Beykush's story is one of struggle and resilience. Before the full-scale invasion, visitors would be offered tastings on the winery's waterside terrace, but now it's far too dangerous to welcome enthusiasts. The operation is run by a skeleton team, and the winery's underground tasting rooms have become a refuge. The winemakers, Olha Romashko and Oleksandr Pashkovsky, have avoided working visibly out in the open and observe a blackout after 10 pm. Despite the dangers, they continue to plant and care for their vines, believing in the future of Ukrainian wine.
In the end, the story of Ukrainian winemakers is one of hope and determination. Despite the uncertainties of war and the devastating losses, they continue to plant, tend, and harvest, knowing that the very act of making wine is an act of belief in the future. As the sun sets over the vineyard, the buzzing of bees and the music of cuckoos and golden orioles fill the air, a reminder that life goes on, even in the face of war.
